What is this? It is cash only, “no cards, only cash,” and it is the faded splendor of the Hotel Atlantic (Kempinski) and the old girl is having a facelift. Beneath the marble title is a facsimile of marble. I suppose it’s progress. We walk and nearly get side-swiped at every road crossing by bicycles and there are maybe one, two beers on tap. It’s the Reeperbahn, served by a surly hipster, and then the u-bahn and maybe a bahn mi and I feel like I’m in my very own bain marie. I’m tired and I should be asleep. A ham berk taking pictures of cars and losing precious moments.